What is the best sun protection?

Most frequent queries:

1. Are all sunscreens the same?
2. How many types of sunscreens are there?
3. What is ultraviolet radiation? UVA, UVB and UVC rays.
4. Do sunscreens protect us from radiation?
5. What sunscreens are allowed in Europe?
6. How are physical filters different from chemical filters?
7. Chemical filters: types, disadvantages and advantages.
8. Physical filters: types, disadvantages and advantages.
9. Biological filters.
10. What is a nanoparticle?
11. Which ones are safer?
12. What is my phototype?
13. How do I know if I'm burning?
14. Why is sun protection so important?
15. What sunscreens do not pollute?
16. What is the best sunscreen?

At the end of the article, after resolving the previous queries, we have made a summary and shared our recommendations based on the type of needs.

1. Are all sunscreens the same?

The answer is no. There are different types of sunscreens that protect us from solar radiation and each of them has its own characteristics, pros and cons. To date, it cannot be said that there is a perfect sunscreen. (suitable for everyone, without any inconvenience and with total protection).

2. How many types of sunscreens are there?

There are 3 types of sunscreens.

For a cream/lotion/spray to protect our skin from UVA and/or UVB radiation, it must contain ingredients that act as a filter (shield) to prevent this radiation from being harmful. Currently, when talking about filters in sunscreens, three are mentioned:

• Chemical filters ( also called synthetic or organic)
• Physical filters (also called minerals or inorganic)
• Biological filters **

** Although they are colloquially named as a type of sun filter, they are not recognized as sun filters since the filter measurement system and protocol excludes this research.

As has been scientifically proven, it has been estimated that up to half of the free radicals produced in the skin and that produce damaging effects are due to exposure to sunlight in the visible regions of the spectrum (visible light). . Hence, protection against blue sunlight is becoming more relevant today.”

Brands with sunscreens (available at theCosmethics) with physical filters:

- Alga Maris

- Madara

- Odacité

- Évolve

- Dr.Hauschka

- Pai Skincare

- Seventy One Percent: SPF50+ Eco Sun Shield , SPF50+ Eco Sun Shield Invisible and Eco Sun Spray SPF50+ body sunscreen spray .

Brands with sunscreens (available at theCosmethics) with chemical filters:

- Seventy One Percent: Blue Lagoon Sunscreen stick SPF50+ high protection for face , Moisturizing facial cream SPF30+ UVA and UBV and blue light. Urban Feel Good and Dry Sun Oil SPF30+ dry sunscreen oil for face, hair and body .

3. What is ultraviolet radiation?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a form of radiation that is emitted by the sun and artificial sources. Its name comes from the fact that its range starts from shorter wavelengths than what the human eye identifies as violet light, but said light or wavelength is invisible to the human eye as it is above the visible spectrum. This radiation is an integral part of the sun's rays and produces several health effects as it is a radiation between non-ionizing and ionizing.

Ultraviolet rays are divided into three large groups (UVA, UVB and UVC), which are differentiated by the amount of energy they transmit.

UVA rays are the ultraviolet rays that have the least energy. They represent 95% of ultraviolet radiation and penetrate to the dermis. These rays generate free radicals and promote aging and the appearance of spots on the skin.

3.1 UVA Rays

UVA rays age skin cells and can damage the DNA of these cells. These rays are associated with long-term skin damage, such as wrinkles, but are also thought to play an important role in some types of cancer. Most tanning beds emit large amounts of UVA, which has been found to increase the risk of skin cancer.

3.2 UVB Rays

UVB rays have slightly more energy than UVA rays. These rays can directly damage the DNA of skin cells, and are the main rays that cause sunburn. They are also believed to cause the majority of skin cancers. Both UVA and UVB rays can damage the skin and cause skin cancer. UVB rays are the most direct cause, at least in certain skin cancers, but as far as is known, no UV rays are harmless.

3.3 UVC Rays

UVC rays have more energy than other types of UV rays, but they do not penetrate the atmosphere and are not in sunlight. They are not normally a cause of skin cancer.

The power of UV rays that reaches the ground depends on a number of factors, such as:

• Time of day: UV rays are most powerful between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
• Season of year: UV rays are most powerful during the spring and summer months. This is a less important factor near the equator.
• Distance from the equator (latitude): UV exposure decreases the farther you move from the equator
• Altitude: More UV rays reach the ground at higher elevations.
• Cloud formation: The effect of clouds can vary, as sometimes cloud formation blocks some UV rays from the sun and reduces UV exposure, while some types of clouds can reflect UV rays and can increase exposure to UV rays. UV rays. What's important to know is that UV rays can pass through clouds, even on a cloudy day.
• Reflection from surfaces: UV rays can bounce off surfaces such as water, sand, snow, pavement, or grass, leading to an increase in UV exposure.

4. Do sunscreens protect us from radiation?

Yes and no.

We could say that both physical and chemical filters have the ability to protect our skin against radiation equally well.

Before delving into this issue, we must keep in mind that, for a sunscreen to be marketed, It must comply with current regulations (this regulation varies from one continent/country to another) and meet certain standards that guarantee that it is a healthy and effective protector.

Based on this, our experience and knowledge allow us to affirm that great steps have been taken but science has shown that not all of them are always equally effective.

Why aren't all of them always equally effective?

Because the effectiveness that we demand from a sunscreen depends on many factors and therefore the measuring scale will be different: skin phototype, allergies/intolerances to certain ingredients, skin conditions, skin type, use, cosmetics*, circumstances of sun exposure (time of sun exposure, time of year), ingredients harmful to the environment, etc.

* Texture to the touch, ease of absorption, sensation to the touch (or comfort)

Easy to understand examples where we can easily see that the demands/circumstances when choosing a sunscreen are going to be different:

• 1 year old baby.
• Person with acne and fair complexion.
• Sports person who practices surfing.
• Triathlon athlete person.
• Adult with tanned complexion who sunbathes daily.
• Person who has undergone radiotherapy treatment
• Person with MCS (Multiple Chemical Sensitivity).
• Person who lives on an island and is constantly exposed to the sun.

We have given these examples so that you can understand why We should not affirm that all sunscreens are equally effective. Each circumstance is specific and the requirements that a person may ask for in a sunscreen do not have to be the same as what another person needs and this does not mean that my choice is the best nor that yours is either.

Every summer we use sunscreen to protect ourselves from the sun. We use it because it has been shown that its use protects and prevents us , in part, from sunburn, skin aging and there are even scientific studies that advise using sunscreen to prevent possible skin cancer.

Most sunscreens have a complex composition that is often difficult to understand. Dozens of studies affirm that, in some cases, some chemical compositions can be harmful, especially due to the endocrine disrupting potential of some of their components. (especially for babies, young children, adolescents and pregnant women). They can also be harmful to the fauna and flora of our rivers, seas and oceans.

5. Solar filters allowed in Europe:

Currently in Europe they are authorized 28 substances as sunscreens However, some of them are prohibited in the US. In the US they are stricter and claim that there is a lack of more scientific and clinical data, since of the 28 substances allowed in Europe, 12 of them are not approved in the US*).

*The FDA is the body that regulates these issues in the US.

This helps us understand why we must be cautious and why we cannot make absolute statements about the safety of a substance.

5.1 Solar filters allowed in Europe and not authorized in the US.

Chemicals not approved by the FDA for use as sunscreens include cinoxate, dioxybenzone, ensulizole, homosalate, meradimate, octinoxate, octisalate , octocrylene, padimate O, sulisobenzone, oxybenzone, and avobenzone .

After many years and having tried dozens and dozens of sunscreens, at theCosmethics we still haven't found the perfect sunscreen.

6. How are chemical sunscreens different from physical ones?

• In the way to act /behave to protect our skin when they come into contact with radiation.
• In it type of ingredients .
• In its harmlessness . Although it cannot be guaranteed that there is a 100% safe and healthy filter, to date several studies report and in some cases alarm about the toxicity levels of some of them.

Our body has its own method of protection from UVA rays, such as melanin and sweat (which contains an acid that is a powerful protector) but who more and who less ends up wanting to sunbathe, and do so indiscriminately and without protection. Solar is not healthy. That is why, almost always, we end up resorting to sunscreens.

Currently, there are 2 types of sunscreens (different ways to protect our skin from radiation) in creams with SPF. (Sun Protection Factor or Solar Protection Factor, SPF): chemical filters and physical filters.

If you have questions about what exactly sun protection factor is and how to know which one to choose, we recommend reading this article. “What does sun protection factor mean and imply?”

7. Chemical filters: operation, types, disadvantages and advantages.

Also called synthetic filters: the most common in conventional sunscreens.

7.1 Operation:

Chemical sunscreen interferes with our body's natural protection method (melanin + acid contained in sweat). For this reason, it is always recommended that they be applied half an hour before sun exposure, since they have to be absorbed by the skin for the corresponding chemical reaction to occur and to act and protect us from radiation.

Chemical sunscreens act by absorbing solar radiation and transforming it into another type of energy that is not harmful to the skin.

In some sunscreens with chemical filters there are substances that can imitate the biological function of estrogens. This can lead to estrogen-like effects in the body and thus alter the hormonal balance to estrogens ( endocrine disruptors*) and induce hormone-dependent cancer according to numerous scientific studies. The IARC ( International Cancer Research Center) recommends avoiding them at all costs.

They act by dispersing and absorbing solar radiation, producing a chemical reaction in the filter and leading to the production of heat and the formation of secondary products or by-products of the reaction. Due to this fact, the filter is not recovered and its protective capacity “is spent”. This is why they should be applied more frequently. Many are absorbed through the skin, especially the older, cheaper and most used ones.

*Endocrine disruptor: chemical compound that can bind to a receptor on the cell membrane just as an estrogen hormone would, triggering a series of hormone-like effects on the cell and body.

7.2 Common ingredients in cosmetics as a chemical filter and conclusions about each of them

– PABA and derivatives : they are little used, they were among the first to be marketed, they stain clothing and are associated with numerous adverse reactions.

• Among others are Octyldimethyl PABA or Padimate O : it has estrogenic endocrine disrupting effects, free radical releaser, allergic reactions and environmental pollutant. It is considered ecotoxic**. Always avoid.
  
  
• Ethylhexyl triazone (octyl triazone) : Increases the effectiveness of other filters. Releases litbes radicals with sunlight. Ethylhexyl Triazone is a new generation chemical sunscreen (not available in the US due to impossible FDA regulations) that provides the highest photostable absorption of all UVB filters available today. Protects in the UVB range (280-320nm) with a peak protection of 314nm. It is a colorless, odorless, oil-soluble powder that works well in fragrance-free formulas. Up to 5% can be used worldwide except the US and Canada.
  
  
  ** Ecotoxicity :
  “Ecotoxicology is the study of the effect of toxic chemical compounds on living beings, especially in terms of populations, communities and ecosystems. Ecotoxicology is a multidisciplinary field, which integrates toxicology, ecology and environmental chemistry. The objective of this approach is to be able to predict the effects of pollution for the most efficient and effective action to prevent or remedy any effect of environmental deterioration. that can be identified. In those ecosystems that are losing environmental quality due to pollution or other human activities. “Ecotoxicological studies can provide information to give the best course of action to restore ecosystem goods and services,” source Wikipedia

– Cinnamates:

• Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate, OMC, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, EHMC): confirmed endocrine disruptor, persistent and bioaccumulative, is absorbed through the skin and may increase the absorption of other substances. It appears in breast milk. Ecotoxic. One of the most problematic filters today. Banned in Denmark in children's creams. It pollutes rivers and affects populations of fish and other aquatic animals. It appears in tap water and even in some bottled water. Always avoid.
  
  
• Cinoxate (2-Ethoxyethyl-P-Methoxycinnamate) : Deprecated. There is little data on its safety. Avoid as a precaution. (EWG 3 limited)

– Salicates: They are weaker, they increase the power of other UVB radiation absorbers. Better security profile.

• Homosalate (3,3,5-Trimethyl-Salicylate Cyclohexanol; 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl 2-Hydroxybenzoate) : very polluting, weak endocrine disruptor, decomposes with light into oxidizing substances that are harmful to the skin. Increases the absorption of other substances. Avoid.
  
  
• Octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate, 2-Ethylhexyl 2-Hydroxybenzoate) : it is quite safe, it is frequently used in combination with Avobenzone to lengthen the duration of protection. It is considered ecotoxic. Today it is an acceptable chemical filter.

– Octocrylene (2-Cyano-3,3-Diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-Ethylhexyl 2-Cyano-3,3-Diphenyl acrylate) : reinforces SPF and improves water resistance. Very photostable. Causes allergic reactions in sensitive skin. Persistent and bioaccumulative in wildlife, ecotoxicity. If possible, it is better to avoid it in children, pregnant women and atopic skin.

– Ensulizole (2-Pheny 1H-benzimidazole 5-Sulfonic acid, PBSA) : in contact with the sun, it releases free radicals, which can damage DNA and potentially even contribute to skin cancer. Avoid if possible.

– 4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor) (1,7,7-Trimethyl-3-[(4-Methylphenyl) Methylene] Bicyclo [2.2.1] Heptan-2-On) ): endocrine disruptor, persistent and bioaccumulative. Not authorized in the US for sun creams. Possible thyroid toxicity. Important environmental pollutant, it affects aquatic populations. Always avoid.

– Benzophenones: widely used although less and less since it is one of the worst chemical filters that exist, especially Benzophenone-3 (BP-3) or Oxybenzone which has effects as a multiple endocrine disruptor, is bioaccumulative, persistent in the environment, is associated with photoallergic reactions, it is absorbed in significant quantities through the skin, passing into breast milk. There is evidence of neurotoxicity and ecotoxicity, affecting many aquatic species. With current data it should be prohibited.

The CDC found it in the bodies of 97% of Americans tested in a study. Always avoid.

It can be found under the following names: benzophenone-3, (2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl) phenyl-methanone; 2-benzoyl-5-methoxyphenol; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;4-08-00-02442 ( beilstein handbook reference ); (2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl)phenylmethanone; 4-methoxy-2-hydroxybenzophenone; advastab 45; ai3-23644; anuvex; b3; benzophenone

– Anthranilates: They are weak UVB absorbers and mainly UVA absorbers, but less effective than benzophenones.

– Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Parsol 1798) Today it is one of the safest chemical filters. It barely causes allergies. It degrades easily in sunlight, losing its effectiveness, although it can be stabilized with other safe substances such as Octisalate . It is considered ecotoxic. The most recommended by the Environmental Working Group.

Today it is the only chemical sunscreen agent available worldwide that provides adequate protection against UVA rays (in the US, new generation sunscreen agents are not approved due to impossible sunscreen regulations. the FDA). It is the global gold standard of UVA protection and is the most widely used UVA sunscreen in the world .

It provides very good protection throughout the UVA range (310-400 nm which is both UVA1 and UVA2) with maximum protection at 360 nm. However, the problem is that it is not photostable and degrades in sunlight. Wikipedia says that avobenzone loses 36% of its UV absorption capacity after just one hour of sunlight (yes, this is one of the reasons sunscreens need to be reapplied after a few hours).

– Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate : oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that protects in the UVB range (290-320 nm) with a maximum absorbance at 310 nm and with some additional protection in the UVA II range (320-340 nm). It is a new generation UV filter that is approved up to 10% in the EU, but is not (yet) available in the US due to impossible FDA regulations.

– Mexoryl SX. Tetraphthalidine sulfonic acid dialcamphor. Broad UVA absorber with similar efficacy to avobenzone . It is also considered safe.

7.3 Broad spectrum filters (UVA and UVB)

In recent years, new filters that absorb, reflect and disperse light have been appearing that are hybrids between mineral and chemical filters. They have been created to avoid the problems of old chemical filters, they are larger, do not absorb, are not very allergenic and for the moment appear to be safe.

Hybrid filters:

– Tinosorb M (Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol): it is not absorbed, it is photostable, there are few studies on it. It is a possible environmental contaminant. It is not allowed in the USA. Acceptable filter but we advise caution due to lack of studies.

– Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) : photostable and non-estrogenic. Is one of the best sun protection agents known today. It's not FDA approved, so you won't find it in sunscreens coming from the US (not because it's not good, but because US regulations make it impossible for sunscreen agents to be approved newer) , but it is widely available in other parts of the world such as Europe, Australia or Asia.

It's a chemical sunscreen agent broad spectrum (covers the entire UVB and UVA range, 280-400 nm) with maximum protections at approximately 310 and 345 nm and, unlike older UV filters, it is very photostable. It hardly deteriorates in the presence of ultraviolet light and is also useful for stabilizing other less stable sun protection agents, such as the famous UVA protector, avobenzone .

It is a new generation sun protection agent that was designed specifically for a high SPF and good UVA protection and, according to a 2007 study that compared 18 sun protection agents available in the EU, it really had the best SPF protection ( they used the highest concentration allowed by EU regulations of every 18 sunscreens and Trinosorb S gave an SPF 20 on its own).

It is a slightly yellowish, oil-soluble powder that does not absorb much into the skin. This is good news for a sunscreen agent, since it needs to be on the surface of the skin to do its job properly. Regarding the side effects of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, we also have good news: has an excellent safety profile and, unlike other chemical sunscreens, Trinosorb S (and M) does not show estrogenic activity.

– Iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB, diethylhexyl butamido triazone): no data. It is acceptable but we apply the principle of prudence.

7.4 Disadvantages of chemical filters:

• As explained by the professor of medicine Nicolás Olea , the 3 large chemical groups used in sunscreens are benzophenones , camcenes and oxycinnamates , and all 3 are antiandrogenic and modify the behavior of sexual hormones.
  
  
• Environmental Working Group and IARC confirm with scientific studies the possible negative effects of using many of these chemical filters. As you have been able to read in the detailed list, in many cases they are completely discouraged.
  
  
• The department of pharmacology at the University of Zurich has denounced that most pharmacological sunscreens have hormonal activity and function as endocrine disruptors, stating that they can cause serious health problems, from vitamin synthesis deficiency to contributing to diseases such as cancer.
  
  
• They can block the secretion of sweat: so that the cream does not go away, they make sweating difficult and add to their chemical formula the protective acid contained in the sweat synthesized in the laboratory.
  
  
• They eliminate our body's natural alarm: our body turns red when sun exposure exceeds the limit of what is healthy. This natural warning from the body does not exist when we use chemical sunscreens, so we expose ourselves to the sun longer than is advisable for our health.
  
  
• They can prevent the synthesis of vitamin D: according to Nicolás Olea, we are the European country with the most vitamin D deficiency, despite being the ones that spend the most time in the sun. The use of sunscreens prevents our body from properly synthesizing vitamin D, which we obtain from exposure to sunlight.
  
  
• They can contaminate the environment: they are composed of chemical substances, mostly derived from petroleum, that can be toxic to the environment and our health. The oceans are polluted due to their use and abuse on beaches. In particular, many of them are a major ecological threat to coral reefs.

7.5 Advantages of chemical filters:

As a great advantage, we affirm that they are very pleasant from a cosmetic point of view since they offer very pleasant textures, wonderful smells (they are almost always accompanied by synthetic perfumes) and the creams with these filters do not leave the skin whitish. This more pleasant cosmetic appearance helps us in their application and helps make it less cumbersome to re-apply them frequently.

8. Physical filters: operation, types, disadvantages and advantages.

Physical filters (also called mineral filters) : an alternative to sunscreens with chemical filters

Physical filters, also known as mineral or sunblocks, are mineral powders, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (the most used) that are added to creams to act as a sun shield/protector.

More and more conventional cosmetic brands are replacing chemical filters with these physical/mineral filters since it has been shown that they are better tolerated, cause fewer allergies and are more respectful of our skin and the environment. They are usually the safest and most recommended, since they are not absorbed through the skin in most cases. They act by reflecting ultraviolet light, as if they were casting a shadow on the skin.

8.1 Operation:

It acts as a screen reflecting light, so that the rays bounce back. That is, they reflect solar radiation, preventing it from penetrating the skin and causing redness, burns, etc.

• According to recent studies (2016) published in the scientific journal Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine , the protective action mechanism of physical or inorganic filters is due to greater absorption than reflection and/or dispersion of solar radiation. These filters have greater absorption than reflection for ultraviolet radiation. However, on the contrary, these types of filters would reflect a greater percentage of the visible light coming from the sun.”

8.2 Common ingredients in cosmetics as a physical filter and conclusions about each of them

• The most commonly used are minerals such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide .
  
  
• Iron or magnesium oxides, silicon, talc, calamine, mica, kaolin and icthamol (less common) are also used.
  
  
• Ideally they should be used in non-nano** form to be considered safe. Otherwise, the ideal is for the manufacturer to provide information about it and its research. When a photoprotector includes nanoparticles, it must be indicated in its composition (later we will talk about nanoparticles and encapsulated nanoparticles).

**In sun protection, the mineral particles in these filters are considered NANO if they have a diameter less than 100 microns. All particle diameters of these filters greater than these 100 microns are therefore considered NON-NANO.

8.3 Titanium and titanium dioxide:

• Titanium occurs naturally in the following minerals: rutile, ilmenite and anastase.
  
  
• Many people are familiar with this ingredient as an active ingredient in sunscreen but are unaware of how common and what exactly titanium dioxide is.
  
  
• Pure titanium dioxide is a fine, odorless, white powder that provides a bright white pigment . It has been used for centuries in many industrial and consumer products such as paint, adhesives, paper, plastics, rubbers, toothpastes, soaps, water treatment agents, pharmaceuticals, sunscreens, makeup, etc.
  
  
• Titanium dioxide is obtained mainly in 2 ways:
  • The most common, which comprises more than 98% of total production, is titanium dioxide pigment . This shape provides excellent light scattering properties.
  • The least common, which comprises almost 2%, is the way in which titanium dioxide is produced as an ultrafine product (nanomaterial).
    
    
• Titanium dioxide pigment is used in makeup to help hide imperfections and brighten the skin. Titanium dioxide allows you to use a thinner layer of makeup and obtain the same desired effect.
  
  
• At an industrial level, titanium dioxide is mainly obtained using 2 manufacturing processes and from 2 different minerals as raw materials:
  • From the mineral ilmenite. The mineral is treated with acid (sulfuric acid).
  • From the mineral rutile. The mineral is treated with chlorine gas.
    
    
• Titanium dioxide is not a perfect ingredient even though it is a mineral. Titanium is a metal and its specific weight g/cm3 is 4.54, therefore it is considered a heavy metal but heavy metal should not be confused with toxic or harmful metal. Although there is no agreement on criteria, “heavy metal” is generally considered to be an element with a density greater than 4.5 g/cm3.
  
  
• According to different scientific research, titanium dioxide has other demonstrated potential properties:
  
  
  • Antimicrobial effect . This is due to the ability to react with UV radiation, giving rise to a chemical reaction called photocatalytic, which generates reactive oxygen species that destroy the cell wall of bacteria. The smaller the diameter of the titanium dioxide mineral particle, the greater its antimicrobial effect.
  • Healing property . It has been shown to help in wound healing, and even more so if this mineral is embedded in a gelatinous and/or viscous material, such as gelatin or hyaluronic acid.
    
    

Is titanium dioxide safe?

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) evaluated the safety of titanium dioxide pigment as a color additive for use in foods, drugs and cosmetics and as an ingredient in sunscreen products. The FDA published guidance clarifying the safe use of titanium dioxide pigments as a colorant in foods and established that titanium dioxide can be safely used in cosmetics .

Titanium dioxide is included on the FDA's list of acceptable active ingredients in sunscreen products . According to the FDA, the active ingredients in sunscreen, such as titanium dioxide, protect the skin from the sun's UV rays.

Curiosity:

In Europe and some other countries, sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics, not medicines, and are subject to different marketing requirements. Any sunscreen sold in the United States is regulated as a drug because it makes a drug claim, to help prevent sunburn or to decrease the risks of skin cancer and premature skin aging caused by the sun.

Are there any health problems associated with exposure to titanium dioxide?

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified titanium dioxide as “possibly carcinogenic to humans,” based on studies that indicated an increase in lung tumors in rats related to with inhalation of titanium dioxide. However, extensive studies of titanium dioxide industry workers do not suggest a relationship between occupational exposure to titanium dioxide and an increased risk of cancer in humans.

Curiosity:

A large part of the titanium dioxide that we have in our body does not come from cosmetics, it comes from food. Under the name E-171 and E-771 it is present in fresh cheeses, cream ice creams, and white/whitish sauces (creamy or Greek type). Everything extremely white usually contains a lot of titanium dioxide, which is the whitest dye in the world and is almost certainly present in the paint on the wall of your house.

What are the differences between titanium dioxide pigment and titanium dioxide nanoparticles?

Titanium dioxide pigment is manufactured with a specific particle size distribution to optimize visible light scattering and improve surface opacity. Titanium dioxide is primarily produced in the pigment form (more than 98 percent of total production), which makes use of its excellent light scattering properties for a variety of applications requiring opacity and gloss.

Titanium dioxide nanoparticles are deliberately made into a much smaller particle size distribution compared to pigment particles, and are transparent and more effective as UV light absorbers or photocatalysts. The transparency and its ability to absorb ultraviolet light allow it to be used effectively as a protective ingredient in sunscreens but in nanoparticle form it can be carcinogenic, so we should avoid it in nano form, as well indicates it IARC .

If you want to have more information about titanium dioxide, we recommend this article, which is easily understandable, written by the journalist Nina Benito.

8.4 Zinc oxide:

Zinc oxide is, so far, the least harmful mineral for both our skin and the environment. It is biodegradable and numerous scientific studies qualify it as a very safe filter both in nano and non-nano ( nanoparticle ) form, yet it is also always recommended to preferably consume it in non-nano form.

One of the “disadvantages” of using only this physical filter as a sunscreen is that the greater the protection capacity (greater = longer), the greater the amount of zinc oxide is necessary, which means that the cosmetic quality of the cream is a little worse because the “thick” texture and it is not exactly what we usually like the most when we buy a sunscreen.

We want it all. We want it to be 100% natural, to be safe, to be healthy, to apply it to be something similar to getting inside an astronaut suit to be completely waterproof, we want it to have an extrasensory texture, to smell delicious, to not leave the skin white and even though hours have passed, we have sweated, we have bathed... we want it to continue working and this is not possible.

10. What is a nanoparticle?

12. Phototype

When choosing a sunscreen we must take into account many aspects as you may have seen, although a large part of this article has focused on the different types of sunscreens (that is, on their composition) there are many other factors that are also very relevant. : the phototype, the SPF, the particularities of the skin, if you are in a special stage of life such as pregnancy or being a baby, the place where you will be exposed to the sun, any allergies, diseases, etc.

The phototype is the innate characteristics that our skin has in terms of its ability to adapt and tolerate solar radiation. That is, what determines whether a skin tans or not, to what degree it does so and how much it burns from the same sun exposure.

This ability to “buffer” the effects of the sun's rays is related to melanocytes, which are cells with the ability to accumulate melanin pigment. The greater this capacity, the greater the skin phototype.

There are 6 defined phototypes, each of which can be included in one or the other according to the characteristics indicated here:

Phototype I : this is the type of skin most sensitive to the sun. Its ability to synthesize melatonin is very low, so it has almost no pigment and burns very quickly. These are people with very light, milky-looking skin, who tend to have very light redheads or blondes, blue eyes, and a tendency to have freckles on their skin.

Phototype II: these people burn easily and intensely, although they can become slightly pigmented in gentle exposures and with protection . They normally have light skin, blonde hair, blue eyes and sometimes freckles.

Phototype III : the skin in this photo tends to pigment correctly in the sun, burning moderately in intense exposures. These are normally Caucasian people with different colors of eyes and hair, light skin if not exposed but tanned in summer.

Phototype IV: these people already innately have dark-looking skin and intense or dark brown eyes and hair. They burn moderately or minimally depending on the circumstances and are easy to pigment and tan quickly and intensely.

Phototype V: this type of skin rarely burns. It pigments almost immediately with sun exposure and is suitable for people with brownish skin and dark hair and eyes.

Phototype VI: these are people whose skin color is very dark or black. They never burn when exposed to the sun, except if they present some lesion or anomaly on the skin, and they become pigmented immediately when exposed to the sun. They have dark eyes and black hair.

13. How do I know if I am burning?

The sunburn process begins while we are exposed to radiation, but its intensity increases approximately one hour after stopping sunbathing, reaching a maximum of activity 24-48 hours later, which is why we usually present more pain and redness on the days just after a burn.

This is why it is sometimes difficult or almost impossible to detect whether we are burning or not, especially on days when the sun "deceives" us since when it is cloudy we can have a very high radiation index.

When we are in the sun and we begin to notice some heat and redness, it is usually too late and the burn, even if it is mild, has already occurred, damaging our skin cells to a greater or lesser extent.

Therefore, we should not be overconfident and whenever we expose ourselves to the sun we should do so with protection and taking into account factors such as the radiation index, our skin phototype, exposure time, etc.

14. Why is sun protection so important?

When summer arrives, the media does not stop bombarding us about the importance of applying some type of sun protection, so almost all of us know that applying sunscreen is essential to avoid different types of skin cancer, especially melanoma. Even so, we want you to not only know that we must protect ourselves, but also why we must do it.

As we already know, our skin has mechanisms to alleviate this damage, although they are not always completely sufficient or effective. It is at this moment, when our skin fails to properly repair cellular DNA, that it leads to the production of precancerous cells, which can be the focus of a future tumor.

In addition to skin cancer, there are other types of lesions that are also the result of solar radiation and that can be harmful. We must not forget that UVA and UVB rays produce alterations in addition to DNA, proteins and other elements of the skin, attacking its structure and accelerating its aging process, which is why a very intense tan is also synonymous with dark skin. more damaged.

For all this, at theCosmethics we consider that health comes first, so above all, we must think about maintaining healthy and cared for skin, so prevention and the application of photoprotection must be constant every time we go out in the sun.

14.1 So how much sunscreen do I need to avoid burning?

The sun protection factor, or SPF (as you will see it reflected on the labels of creams and other products), is a number that indicates the number of times it multiplies the natural protection that your skin has against UVB rays, which are directly carcinogens . This, explained with a simple example, means that if your skin takes 15 minutes after being directly exposed to the sun to start burning, an SPF of 30 will take 15x30 minutes, that is, 450 minutes. What happens to UVA rays? We already know that they are responsible for other types of damage, which could also influence cancer indirectly. The SPF does not take them into account when indicating protection against them, but European legislation requires that all sunscreens on sale protect against both types of ultraviolet radiation, so in principle all sunscreens will act as a barrier against both. guys.

Therefore, a higher protection factor is not always synonymous with a greater capacity to prevent radiation from damaging our skin, but rather indicates the time that this “protective” effect will last against UVB radiation, hence the importance of reapply cream frequently . Even so, in light skin that is very sensitive to the sun, a high SPF is recommended to ensure continued protection and prevent ultraviolet rays from causing damage to the skin cells, since these are skins in which these effects are noticeable more quickly. .

15. What is the best sunscreen for the planet?

When you swim with sunscreen, the products contained in your sunscreen can infiltrate the water and end up being absorbed by the corals. Most of the time these substances contain nanoparticles that can alter the reproduction and growth cycles of corals, which ends up causing bleaching. The same thing happens when you shower or when you use aerosol cosmetics (you end up applying product to the sand and then it ends up in the water).

Even with government bans, certain types of sunscreen can be used to protect against sunburn and skin cancer.

“We recommend using reef-safe, oxybenzone-free sunscreen,” says Peter Gash, manager of Lady Elliot Island, near the Great Barrier Reef.

The most responsible and respectful option is to use an environmentally safe sunscreen. Choose mineral-based sunscreens that use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, particles that are not “nano” size and that corals cannot ingest.

16. What is the most effective sunscreen?

There is no definitive answer to this question; The answer suggests that a sunscreen with a physical filter is not as complete as a chemical one and that a chemical one is not as healthy as a physical one. When we talk about effectiveness in a sunscreen we tend to introduce all these requests to assess effectiveness: safety and harmlessness, cream that is easy to spread, practical and quick to apply, skin protection and respect for the environment. So far it seems that the best option is one that has a physical filter in a fluid and easily biodegradable formulation (this would be the case of sun protection with only zinc oxide, although they do not usually have protection higher than SPF30).

Some studies have shown that sunscreens with physical filters alone are not able to reach sun protection factor 50; At theCosmethics we have not yet discovered the perfect cream sunscreen (which would be something like a fluid, non-greasy, non-comedogenic, transparent cream, with a fluid texture and very easy to spread with SPF greater than 50 so that it could also be used by pregnant women. and small, with only zinc oxide and not nano and reinforced with biological filters*).

*A lot of research is being done on the capacity of certain plant extracts to enhance the protective effect of chemical and physical filters through mechanisms such as absorption of solar radiation, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects. An example of this research would be Alga Maris with its Alga-Gorria.

Although theoretically the protection factor of a physical filter and a chemical filter is the same, it is very possible that in terms of effectiveness, the perfect combination is the union of both filters, that is, a sunscreen that contains a chemical filter and a physical filter. . Why do we say this? We are talking in terms of effectiveness (we are not taking into account other points such as composition, environment, etc.)

- They would allow a more homogeneous distribution since the texture would be lighter, fluid and easier to apply.

- For high exposure areas (face) or extremely delicate or light skin, they will need SPF30 or 50 if exposed to the sun and this could be achieved with a cream that combines a physical filter with the recommended chemical filters.

- For babies, young girls and boys and pregnant women and/or if we are going to bathe in protected natural spaces, we must use a cream with a physical filter and preferably with certification and check that it does not contain nanoparticles. Here the key will be in the re-application since the SPF will protect us for less time (because it will also be less).

Conclusions

- The best sun protection is your common sense, shade, hat and appropriate clothing.

- There is no perfect sunscreen; After a lifetime of using sunscreens, studying compositions, testing and training, we believe that the most beneficial and least harmful and risky option for both you and the planet is a sunscreen with a physical filter and only zinc oxide reinforced with biological filters.

- The previous conclusion is not absolute; For skin that needs “total” protection (as high as possible) and that wants to be exposed to the sun, SPF30 may not be enough.

- We are the country with the most vitamin E deficiency, despite being the ones that spend the most time in the sun.

- Tanning should never be a priority if you want to take care of your skin and avoid, as much as possible, premature aging.

- It is very difficult to classify filters as totally safe because safety always depends on risk. The skin of an 8-month-old baby does not have the same risk as that of an adult; The skin of a person who has undergone radiotherapy treatment is more at risk than that of a teenager with acne and so we could continue...

- To date, no cream has yet been discovered that is capable of protecting you from the sun 100% (post updated on 08/17/2022)

- Creams with physical filters are safer, especially for children, pregnant women and adolescents.

- Zinc oxide is the safest and healthiest filter according to the EWG and titanium dioxide is also the same as long as it is preferably used in a formulation without nanoparticles.

- Among the safest chemical filters to date we have Avobenzone , Octisalate , Mexoryl SX and Tinosorbs S and M.

- Always avoid the following chemical filters benzophenone-3, octyldimethyl-PABA, Homosalate, Octisonate and Methyl-benzylidene camphor.

- The sun in itself is not an enemy, it is necessary.

Our recommendations:

- If you do water or outdoor sports, we recommend Seventy one percent sunscreens. They are very easy to apply and do not leave the skin white. Some of them are made with physical filters and others are chemical/hybrid.

- If you want to sunbathe or have sensitive and dry skin and want to use physical sunscreens, we recommend Alga Maris .

- If you are looking for a sunscreen for kids, we recommend this one (physical filter).

- If you are looking for sunscreens that only contain a physical filter, we recommend:

• Seventy One: has two face creams with physical filters. Invisible facial sunscreen SPF50+ Eco Sun Shield Invisible and Eco Sun Shield sunscreen SPF50+ 100% mineral filters .
  
  
• We recommend Alga Maris facial sunscreens (the texture is a little heavy) for dry and sensitive skin looking for medium/high or high protection.
  
  
• Pai's British Summer facial sunscreen only contains zinc oxide.
  
  
• If you have dry skin and are looking for a sunscreen with anti-aging treatment: Nuori facial sunscreen .

- If you have normal, combination or oily skin and are looking for a very fluid, urban sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection and blue light, we recommend Urban Feel Good by Seventy One (if you have extremely reactive skin we advise against it). This protector contains chemical filters.

- If you have combination or oily skin and want a tinted, fluid, non-greasy urban sunscreen, we recommend Climate Veil by Evolve (available in various shades). Physical filter.

- If you are looking for an organic CC Cream with physical filters , we recommend the one from Mádara.

- If you are looking for a facial sunscreen with physical filters and SPF50 and antioxidant treatment. Ideal for daily use. Another antioxidant day cream option that protects your skin from the sun and blue light is Sun Guardian by Odacité (also with a physical filter). It's not matte at all. If you have combination or oily skin, the following recommendation is better.

- If you are looking for a day cream, with anti-ageing treatment and protection factor 50 and broad spectrum we recommend Mineral Drops SPF50 from Odacité. The texture is fluid, it is absorbed quickly, it does not leave the skin white and it contains niacinamide. It is for all skin types (including oily, sensitive, rosacea, dry or acne).

- If you are looking for a stick sunscreen with physical filters, we recommend this one .