Bakuchiol, retinol and derivatives
Bakuchiol is an alternative that is up to 10 times less irritating than retinol.
Ideal for: acne, oily skin, pimples, wrinkles, blemishes, rosacea and redness.
Objectives : luminosity, hydration, soften wrinkles and regulate sebum.
CONSULT PRODUCTS WITH BAKUCHIOL AND/OR RETINOL
1. What are bakuchiol, retinol and derivatives ?
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Bakuchiol is the “natural” retinol that comes from the seeds of the Psoralea coryfolia or Babchi plant, an alternative to retinol or derivatives if your skin does not tolerate these. It does not have the same chemical structure as retinol and its effect on the skin is gentle, acting more as an antioxidant and reducing fine wrinkles. Although we have heard a lot about bakuchiol in recent years, it is an ingredient that has been known since 1970.
- Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, which accelerates cell renewal in the stratum corneum (most superficial layer of the skin), improves the texture and tone of the skin, increases the thickness of the dermis, provides luminosity and reduces wrinkles and flaccidity.
- Retinol derivatives such as retinal and retinol esters
2. What kind of ingredients is it?
Active ingredients found in a wide variety of cosmetics, but especially in serums, ampoules and creams. They stand out for having multiple properties, they reduce wrinkles, provide luminosity and improve spots, among others.
3. How do I identify it in the list of ingredients ( INCI )?
Bakuchiol
Retinol
Derivatives
4. What properties does the prickly pear have?
Bakuchiol:
- It prevents collagen degradation, making it effective in treating fine wrinkles and non-severe sagging, as well as photo-aged skin.
- Improves the general tone of the skin and reduces blemishes
- Antibacterial
It can be found at concentrations between 0.5 and 1%
Retinol and derivatives:
- Depigmenting
- Reduces signs of aging, reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness.
- It increases the dermis and refines the stratum corneum (the most superficial layer of the epidermis), leaving it softer.
- Antioxidant, enhances luminosity.
- sebum-regulating
- Anti-inflammatory
- Improves long-term barrier function.
It can be found at concentrations between 0.1 and 1.0%
5. For what type of skin do we recommend this ingredient?
Bakuchiol:
- Delicate and sensitive skin
- Photoaged skin
- Oily skin
- Those skin that does not tolerate retinol and derivatives or that prefers a gentler alternative to these.
- Improves fine wrinkles, spots and the general tone of the skin, providing luminosity.
Retinol and derivatives:
- Dry skin
- Oily skin
- Grain
- Wrinkles
- Stains
- Flaccidity
- Lack of luminosity
- Photoaging
6. Contraindications:
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Retinol and derivatives during pregnancy and breastfeeding, except bakuchiol.
7. Recommendations:
In summer it is better to suspend its use, because the skin will be more vulnerable and therefore can become irritated, red or altered more easily with sun exposure. Except in the case of bakuchiol, which can be used without problem throughout the year.
8. Frequently asked questions about retinol, bakuchiol and derivatives:
Can I use them if I am pregnant?
No. In that case you can use bakuchiol and also during breastfeeding.
Can I use them during the day?
Except in the middle of summer, you can use them during the day for their antioxidant action. If you are going to expose yourself to the sun, we recommend that you choose bakuchiol or directly spend the treatment at night.
Can I use retinol or any derivative if I have rosacea?
Yes, but the best thing to do in case of rosacea is for the dermatologist to evaluate your case and prescribe a treatment.
Are they photosensitizing?
No. But depending on their concentration they could be irritating, so we recommend using them, preferably at night.
If I want to start using retinol or derivatives, how should I do it?
Retinol, at concentrations between 0.1-0.5% and retinal at 0.05%, both on alternate days until tolerance is generated and then included in the daily routine. After 2-3 months, if the skin has tolerated it well, you can increase the concentration of retinol to 1% or, if you have started with derivatives, switch to retinol.
Can I use them every day?
With retinol and derivatives (retinal and retinyl) it is recommended to start every other day and at low concentrations. When the skin has tolerated it, you can use them every day, once.
Can I use it mixed with other active ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide or hydroxy acids?
In the case of retinol and derivatives:
- Avoid it because it could be irritating.
- Or use them separately as follows:
- Vitamin C or niacinamide during the day and retinol at night.
- Hydroxy acids do have a moisturizing function during the day and retinol at night.
- Hydroxy acids are best exfoliators at night and retinol during the day (except in summer, as indicated above). In any case, this combination could be too much for the skin : overexfoliating it, irritating it and leaving it more sensitive. It is preferable that you use a single cosmetic that contains both active ingredients and is properly formulated than using them separately.
In the case of bakuchiol:
- You can use it during the day for its antioxidant action and the vitamin C or hydroxy acids at night because they are more powerful.
Bibliography and references
-Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, F. Carrasco.
- The definitive guide to skin care, Gema Herrerías.
- https://www.mentactiva.com/bakuchiol-la-alternativa-vegetal-a-los-retinoides/
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