Hyaluronic acid
The skin's natural sponge that hydrates, repairs, protects and also prevents and blurs wrinkles
Ideal for: tightness, dehydration, dryness, cracks, wrinkles and blemishes.
Objective : lubricate and keep skin hydrated. Provide luminosity, protect and restore the skin's natural protective barrier and soften wrinkles.
Consult products with hyaluronic acid:
Consult property dictionaries:
1. What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a biocompatible compound; that is, a material that is not toxic or harmful to tissues.
Hyaluronic acid is part of the extracellular matrix, and is responsible for keeping the skin hydrated and providing support to the dermis. It is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) that is found naturally in the skin and one of the most used molecules in cosmetics. and that you can find in most moisturizing cosmetics and in different formats: ampoules, essences, serums, creams, masks, tonics and even cleansers.
The great characteristic of this molecule is that it is hygroscopic, that is, it captures humidity and water from the environment easily. Hyaluronic acid is capable of retaining up to 1000 times its weight in water.
What is its composition?
It is a linear polysaccharide composed of the consecutive repetition of 2 sugars, D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
How much hyaluronic acid does a human being have?
This natural ingredient is found mostly in the skin. For example, in a 70 kg adult we can say that it has 15 grams of hyaluronic acid, most of which is present in the skin, mainly in the dermis.
How is hyaluronic acid synthesized?
In humans, and mammals in general, enzymes called hyaluronan synthases are responsible for its production on the surface of cells. “This enzyme joins the disaccharide units formed by the sugars D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine until the desired final length of hyaluronic acid is reached.”
Where is hyaluronic acid located?
In the human body, as well as in vertebrates, hyaluronic acid occurs in different tissues such as: cartilage, connective (or supporting) tissue, skin, synovial fluid and vitreous humor.
How is hyaluronic acid metabolized?
An enzyme present in the skin called hyaluronidase is responsible for breaking down this compound into increasingly smaller fragments.
2. What kind of ingredients is it?
Active ingredient used mainly as a moisturizing moisturizer, although depending on whether it is low, medium or high molecular weight it will have other functions:
- High molecular weight : works on the skin surface creating a protective film that prevents the loss of water that occurs naturally in the skin (transepidermal water loss). In addition, this type of hyaluronic acid, according to scientific-clinical studies, also has other properties: lubricant, anti-inflammatory, as well as inhibiting angiogenesis and promoting wound healing.
- Medium molecular weight: captures moisture and water from the environment and is capable of keeping the first layers of the skin hydrated. This type of hyaluronic acid also acts as a good lubricant.
- Low molecular weight: penetrates to the dermis, promoting the generation of more natural hyaluronic acid (in the skin itself) and having a wrinkle-filling effect. Scientific studies indicate that this type of hyaluronic acid has pro-inflammatory properties in the skin, and improves wound healing as well as high molecular weight
The molecular weight (MW Molecular Weight) refers to the length of the polysaccharide chain of hyaluronic acid (short, medium or long chain).
3. How do I identify it in the list of ingredients ( INCI ) ?
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
- Large molecule , forming a protective film on the skin, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Medium molecule , maintains hydration in the superficial layers of the epidermis.
- Small molecule , it can reach the dermis and synthesizes new hyaluronic acid molecules, reducing sagging, wrinkles and improving hydration.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
- Very low molecular weight , which allows it to not only improve hydration but also improve wrinkles and sagging. And it also has an antioxidant function, protecting the skin from free radicals.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
- Also very low molecular weight.
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
- Improves barrier and antioxidant function and reduces transepidermal water loss.
4. What properties does hyaluronic acid have ?
- Moisturizing moisturizer : keeps the skin hydrated in the first layers of the skin.
- Film-forming moisturizer: creates a film-forming layer on the skin surface, preventing transepidermal water loss and providing a flash effect that blurs fine lines of expression.
- Anti-aging : fills wrinkles and improves sagging.
- Antioxidant : reduces the negative effects of free radicals*, providing luminosity to the skin (*unstable molecules that excessively produce oxidative stress and signs of aging such as wrinkles, sagging, spots...).
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Anti-inflammatory: it has been proven that hyaluronic acid modulates the inflammatory process through specific receptors for this compound.
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Healing : Hyaluronic acid has been shown to improve wound healing time, accelerating the healing process. In addition, it is considered one of the key players in the tissue repair process.
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Lubricant : hyaluronic acid has the ability to lubricate tissues due to its viscoelastic properties
5. For what type of skin do we recommend this ingredient?
- For all skin types that need to maintain hydration.
- For skin with fine wrinkles, sagging and lack of luminosity.
- For photoaged skin with dull tone and pronounced signs of aging.
6. Contraindications:
Allergies.
7. Recommendations:
If you have very sensitive skin, take into account the size of the molecule, since a very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid could be irritating for you.
If you live in a very dry climate, like Madrid, and have dehydrated skin, in addition to using moisturizing cosmetics that contain hyaluronic acid, make sure they include emollient and occlusive ingredients. So that? To prevent dehydration from getting worse, because the hyaluronic acid used in high concentrations would capture water from the dermis, as it does not have enough moisture in the external environment. With which, the opposite effect would be achieved.
8. Frequently asked questions about hyaluronic acid:
Can hyaluronic acid and vitamin C be used together?
Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C form a good tandem. But better used separately because each one needs a different pH to remain effective. First you would apply the cosmetic that contains the antioxidant, vitamin C, and then the hyaluronic acid.
The same thing happens if you want to include hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in your routine, it is better to use them separately.
And if you want to combine it with glycolic acid (or another alpha-hydroxy acid) or retinol, it is better to apply the hyaluronic acid during the day and the AHA or retinol at night. Not because of incompatibilities, but because both AHAs and retinol are more appropriate for use at night.
Bibliography and references:
- https://www.elsevier.es/es-revista-offarm-4-articulo-cosmetica-al-dia-13768
- Cosmetics applied to Aesthetics and Wellness, Inmaculada Sabater Galindo and Lourdes Mourelle Mosqueira, Aesthetics and Wellness.
- Cosmetology applied to Comprehensive Aesthetics, Videocinco.
- The definitive guide to skin care, Gema Herrerías.
- Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, F.Carrasco.
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