Vitamin C


The most abundant antioxidant in the skin

Ideal for : acne, wrinkles, spots, pregnancy, sagging. (rosacea, redness and sensitive skin too but not all forms of vitamin C are valid, the most suitable is: Ascorbyl Palmitate or pure vitamin C is already encapsulated at approximately 10%.)

Objective: luminosity, smooth wrinkles. (soothe according to the form of vitamin C or derivative).

CHECK OUR FAVORITES WITH VITAMIN C

CONSULT PROPERTIES DICTIONARY

1. What is vitamin C?

It is a very unstable, photosensitive molecule (in contact with light and oxygen it oxidizes and loses effectiveness) and the best-known antioxidant with multiple indications.

2. What kind of ingredient is it?

Active ingredient considered the antioxidant ingredient par excellence.

3. How do I identify it in the list of ingredients (INCI)?

Ascorbic Acid. Ascorbic acid ( Ascorbic acid ) is pure vitamin C. It is soluble in water, so it is difficult for it to penetrate the skin. It is effective at a concentration of 10%. If it is encapsulated it is much more stable and less irritating because it is released little by little.

Stabilized vitamin C derivatives, less irritating than pure vitamin C:

  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  • Tetrahexyl Decyl Ascorbate
  • Ascorbyl Palmitate: best suited for sensitive skin.
  • Ascorbyl glucoside 
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  • 3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid : the most suitable for improving signs of aging and has proven effectiveness at 2%.

Other derivatives: Calcium Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Sodium Ascorbate and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate.

4. What properties does vitamin C have?

  • Antioxidant: counteracts the action of free radicals, improving the tone and luminosity of the skin.
  • Anti-inflammatory: fights inflammation.
  • Protective and calming .
  • Anti-aging : increases collagen synthesis, improves the appearance of wrinkles and elasticity. Prevents premature skin aging.
  • Depigmenting : helps reduce melasma.
  • Improves the skin's barrier function.
  • Boosts sun protection, helps protect you from sun protection, although you should always apply sunscreen afterwards

5. For what type of skin do we recommend this ingredient ?

For skin with:
  • Lack of luminosity.
  • Wrinkles and loss of elasticity.
  • Photoaging.
  • Melasma.
  • Sensitive skin and/or with altered skin barrier.
  • Oily, acne-prone and dehydrated oily skin.

6. Contraindications:

Precautions: a higher concentration (>20%) does not increase its effectiveness and is irritating.

7. Recommendations:

If you are starting to use vitamin C, you can start with low concentrations (5%) and increase little by little (10-15%) until the skin gains tolerance.

You can apply vitamin C both day and night. It is especially interesting to include it in your daily routine due to its antioxidant action. It is not photosensitizing , that is, it will not produce any abnormal reaction in your skin when exposed to the sun. But keep in mind that if you are going to spend the day at the beach or in the mountains and you are going to be very exposed, we do not recommend applying vitamin C because it would lose its effectiveness.

As it is an unstable and photosensitive molecule , leave your cosmetic with vitamin C protected from sunlight and heat to keep it in good condition. In addition to leaving the product perfectly closed, since air would alter its properties.

Keep in mind that vitamin C oxidizes easily, turning it into a darker color, therefore it can darken pores . But it doesn't cause stains.

Tips to reduce this effect:

  • Apply vitamin C all over the face and leave the central area (especially forehead and nose) for last, thus depositing less product.
  • Cleanse your skin morning and night with a cleanser suitable for your skin. And if you want, the ideal would be to do the double cleansing at night.
  • Perform a weekly peel or exfoliant while you are using vitamin C. If your skin tolerates it.

8. Combinations with other ingredients:

Can I use vitamin C during the day?

You can apply vitamin C both day and night. It is especially interesting to include it in your daily routine due to its antioxidant action. It is not photosensitizing, that is, it will not produce any abnormal reaction in your skin when exposed to the sun. But keep in mind that if you are going to spend the day at the beach or in the mountains and you are going to be very exposed, we do not recommend applying vitamin C because it would lose its effectiveness.

Can I use vitamin C with hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C form a good tandem. But better used separately because each one needs a different pH to remain effective. First you would apply the cosmetic that contains the antioxidant, vitamin C, and then the hyaluronic acid.

Can I use vitamin C with niacinamide in the same product?

They can be used together , if the same cosmetic includes them, possible irritations are avoided.

Can I use a product with vitamin C and then another with niacinamide?

  • If you have sensitive skin, it is best not to use them in the same routine. That is, one day one and another day another. Or one in the morning and one at night.
  • If you do not have sensitive skin and tolerate it well, you should wait at least 20 minutes between applying vitamin C and niacinamide. Or apply one in the morning and another at night.

Can I use vitamin C and retinoids?

  • Not in the same routine. The best retinoid at night.

Can I use vitamin C and glycolic acid (or other alpha hydroxy acids AHA)?

  • We recommend that you apply vitamin C during the day and glycolic at night.
  • And if you have sensitive skin and want an active ingredient with renewing properties like AHAs but more tolerant for your skin: we recommend cosmetics that contain polyhydroxy acids (such as gluconolactone and lactobionic or maltobionic acids).

Bibliography and references:

- https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1034/j.1600-0625.2003.00008.x

- Regulation of Collagen Biosynthesis by Ascorbic Acid:

- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2589959/

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