Alcohol and fragrances in cosmetics

When we talk about sensitive skin, we refer to those skins that are delicate and easily reactive to external agents . These agents can be simply physical, such as cold, heat, friction... or chemical. Today we are going to talk about the latter and always keeping in mind that by chemicals we refer to any substance, of natural origin or not, that may be involved in this process. We like to clarify it Because many times we understand the word “chemical” as opposed to natural, when in reality this is not the case and all of nature is composed of chemical substances (of natural origin). We will then use the terms natural or synthetic substances, thus referring to chemicals not present in nature and the product of laboratory reactions.

Returning to the topic we are addressing today, we will list on the one hand some of the chemicals that most commonly cause irritation reactions or allergies and then we will give some guidelines to follow when choosing a cosmetic when we are faced with sensitive or reactive skin. If you complement this post with the previous one in which we name 4 chemical and potentially carcinogenic ingredients , you will have a small guide to use when analyzing the INCI or formulations of your cosmetics every time you doubt the safety of applying a cosmetic on your skin.

Fragrances

Fragrances are compounds that are used to flavor cosmetics and are normally made up of a terpene (odorless substance) and alcohols, ketones, aldehydes... Although they are present in large quantities in perfumes and deodorants, they are also constant in formulations of gels, creams, shampoos, lotions...

There are fragrances of natural origin and others that are obtained through synthesis in the laboratory. All of them are susceptible to causing some type of skin irritation or even allergy, although some such as geraniol, cinnamaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, eugenol or oak moss absolute are some of the most common allergens in this group of substances. The latter, for example, is a fragrance of plant origin and is part of the composition of some essential oils, so we insist: none of them, natural or artificial, are exempt from causing irritation .

The difference is that if a fragrance is produced by synthesis in a laboratory, it is easier for our body to recognize it as foreign and make an allergic reaction against it.

What do we recommend if you have sensitive skin or are a person predisposed to allergies? Avoid all cosmetics that in their composition (INCI) contain the word parfum, fragance, fragrance... and be especially careful with the most common irritants: geraniol, eugenol, etc. If your skin is truly sensitive, choose simple products , with known and natural compounds and avoid all fragrances , natural or artificial, since all of them can irritate the skin.

Alcohols

When referring to alcohols, we are encompassing a group of compounds very present in cosmetics, due to their properties (humectants, emulsifiers, preservatives or emollients) and which can be both natural and synthetic .

We will differentiate between short-chain alcohols, which are more volatile and irritating, and long-chain alcohols, with a greasy consistency and more used as thickeners and emulsifiers.

• Short chain alcohols

Alcohol denat : also known as denatured alcohol , it is one of the alcohols that generates the most controversy and is also present in countless cosmetics. It is a synthetic alcohol that is nothing more than denatured ethanol , thus obtaining an alcohol with a more unpleasant aroma and flavor than that of alcoholic beverages. Ethanol itself does not carry a greater risk than other similar alcohols, with a medium risk of causing irritation (in fact we use ethanol when, for example, we apply vinegar as a cosmetic). On the other hand, its appearance in the list of ingredients also includes, in a hidden way, that of other substances that are used in the denaturation process of said alcohol, such as denatonium benzoate and terbutanol, which are no longer so advisable due to their potential toxicity .

Benzyl Alcohol – Alcohol commonly used both as a synthetic product and naturally (as it is found in some essential oils). This alcohol also presents a medium risk as an irritant .

Ethyl alcohol : If we want to look for an alcohol with a low risk of irritation, then we find ethanol, of wine origin or from the cultivation of cane or corn. As you can see, unlike alcohol, denat is of natural origin, so no compound is added in its production and in addition to not being very irritating, it is suitable for the manufacture of natural cosmetics .

• Long chain alcohols

Glycerin : it is a substance widely used in cosmetics, present in countless products due to its moisturizing and protective properties on the skin and its versatility as a solvent. There is some controversy regarding this substance, since in many cases its natural source is oil. Even so, it can also have plant origin and this is the way in which it is usually used in natural and organic cosmetics.

Butylene glycol : used as a thickener, solvent and conditioner. It presents some risk of causing irritation.

Propylene glycol : although it has a greater capacity to produce a reaction than Butylene alcohol, it is less than in the case of denat alcohol.

Cetearyl alcohol : is an alcohol obtained as a coconut derivative and is used as an emulsifier and thickener. It is widely used in natural and organic cosmetics and its irritation capacity is low .

Now that we know the most commonly used alcohols in cosmetics, what should be our choice when choosing a product? First of all, we must take into account our skin type. As with fragrances, if your skin is very reactive, avoid cosmetics with artificial short-chain alcohols . In addition, you should choose a quality and well-formulated product and if it contains alcohol, make sure that it is little irritating and in low concentration. That being the case, it shouldn't cause problems. In fact, many products for sensitive skin contain a small amount of some alcohols in their composition, which does not have to be a problem if the formulation is correct.

When it comes to ethyl alcohol or long-chain alcohols of plant origin, we are talking about substances that are not very irritating and that often become necessary to maintain the texture or properties of certain cosmetics. In fact, alcohol is one of the oldest natural preservatives used in cosmetics throughout history and serves to preserve numerous active ingredients . The fact that an alcohol is of plant origin makes it more “tolerable” by our skin, as it is not a foreign substance in nature, and if its concentration and irritating potential are also low, it does not have to be a problem. problem for the health of our skin.

Of course, avoid complex compositions with too many compounds that end in “-ol” and, above all, those that contain alcohols such as alcohol denat in large quantities. A specific exception that you should not worry about is the case of vegetable glycerin, which is very moisturizing and protective so it should not pose any risk to your skin .

Other irritating substances

• Detergents : they are part of shampoos, gels, cleansing foams... Surely if we talk about Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth sulfate they will already sound more familiar to you. Used for being powerful surfactants and for their ability to create foam, they are irritating substances that you should avoid if you have sensitive skin.

• Parabens : widely used as preservatives for their bactericidal properties. They have a high potential to act as allergens and it is believed that they can act as endocrine disruptors, altering our hormonal function and may be related to certain types of cancer, although we will talk about this in detail in another post. Nowadays, due to all this, you will see a multitude of Paraben free products. Even so, this does not exclude other substances, so you should look carefully at its INCI because instead you will sometimes find other substances that are not much better for your skin, such as alcohol denat, silicones, SLS, phthalates or aluminum.

• Amines : You will see them in the ingredients list as MEA, DEA and TEA. They are compounds that can be carcinogenic and are also highly allergenic. You will see them disguised as a “natural” substance like Cocamide DEA, so you should pay attention to the ingredients list.

• Petroleum derivatives : Vaseline, paraffin, mineral oils, silicones... all of them have the ability to clog the pores of our skin, preventing proper perspiration.

We know that today's post has been a bit dense and that you probably have to review and reorder this entire list of ingredients. Even so, we would like to remember that these are just some of the most common irritants and allergens in cosmetics and that there are many more. If your skin is sensitive or reactive, remember that you should avoid cosmetics with a too long list of ingredients that you do not know, avoid irritants such as certain alcohols or fragrances and, above all, be especially careful with complex products such as makeup or nail products, since they are those that tend to use substances that are more irritating to your skin. Prefer simpler and more natural care and you will notice the difference .